Saturday, June 30, 2007

El Mercado

Cora

Every day I manage to wander by el mercado, whether I need something or not. I guess most larger Mexican towns have them, a gathering place for vendors of every sort. Fresh fruits and vegetables, of course, meats, recently slaughtered, herbs and spices, shoes, cloth, plastic toys and novelties, a abuelita-granny selling a sampling of medicinal herbs, and possibly your lunch (huge caldrons of stews, meatballs, and pig parts). As always in Mexico, you are able to find a sweet treat to tide you over.

When you find the fruit aisle, there are four or more vendors, all selling the same thing, competing for your purchase. I think this competition is the reason for the beautiful presentations of the produce. Huge stacks of tomatoes (and they are reluctant to let you pick your own fruit for fear that you topple this huge pile!), radishes displayed like a bouquet of roses. They will pick the best for you, ripe to eat today, or less ripe for tomorrow´s feast and are quick to let you sample an item. The cheese dealer was eager to share each type´s purpose and best attributes.

I am planning to sample a few new freshies each time. For this trip, nopales (cactus fruits, which are like a mild green pepper and very high in vitamins), guayabas, and some fruit that resembles a sweet potato from the outside. Next week I have plans for the jicama, epazote herbs and the vendor who sells six different mole varieties. For those of you who have yet to try mole, seek it out his very instant. It is delicious! An ancient Aztec word meaning mixture, it is some variation of spices, seeds, chiles, and chocolate. It varies by region, but supposedly originated in Puebla.

Talon hates the market, due to the chicken booths with limp bodies (head and feet intact) that lie draped over the counter. He gags every time. The chicken carcasses bother him, but for me the most disgusting is the pork area. Big caldrons of boiling intestines, with every part of the pig, seemingly still warm from the slaughter. While there is a supermercado within driving distance, I´ve prefered to practice mi espaƱol and look locally for our needs. So, we brave the meat booths. I ask for a thin cut of beef, a filete or milanesa de res. The butcher is very helpful and obviously proud of his wares. He inquires about my plans for his meat and selects the best cut, then lets me choose where and how thick he cuts. My teacher, Lulu, says the best meat is red and very juicy, not dry at all. Then, the chicken. I skip the baskets of chicken feet (used for broth), heads, livers, etc. and request a breast. There are no boneless, skinless cuts here (and didn´t you always wonder about those, they definitely don´t seem natural...) and she uses a massive pair of scissors to cut my breast into four parts.

So far, so good. We are not sick, and our meal of tortas (a sandwich on rolls), with cactus salad was delicious. So, I will venture again over to the meat aisle tomorrow for our meal. I really wish my shopping experiences were similar in the US. This beats the weekly ¨chore¨ of going to the sterile grocery store. I love the mercado. It is an experience. We buy our food for the day fresh, usually based on what looks good and cooking it is much more satisfying. Plus it is cheaper and uses way less packaging.
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Eliot´s first Haircut.

Eliot had his first professional haircut yesterday. It was such a Big Deal that Talon jumped in and joined him. We went to a famous local salon and paid almost $4 for the jobs. They were desperately still and rewarded with lollipops. Now they are Muy Guapo.
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Place of Retreat

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Our Vista and Casa

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Cholula and us.

Yes, this sauce sports the name of our summer town. The connection was a mystery I needed to solve. No, the hot sauce is not made here. The bottle of this delicious sauce does declare that it is ¨Made in Mexico¨, and Wikipedia tells you that it´s named after the histric town of Cholula in which we reside. This name comes from the Nahuatl word Chollulaan, which means, appropriatley, something like ¨place of retreat¨. A couple blocks from our apartment is a giant pyramid wider than any on Earth. And also, Incredibly, this town has the longest continuous inhabitation of the Americas. People have been living here for at least 25 centuries. That´s why it feels so, um, old. The sauce, however, is made somewhere in Jalisco which is a few hours away.
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Settling In

These are a few shots form the last leg of the journey, in Guanajuato.
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Friday, June 22, 2007

Estamos en Mexico



Adam: Aieeeeeeeeeee! We have arrived. After five days of rather ridiculous driving, we are resting here in Guanajuato, MX. The border was a breeze and three states of Mexico long and wide open. This town is rich with life and history. Above, three centuries of bulidings and color, below, a winding maze of vehicle tunnels, once used to divert a river now underground. It was here that the Mexican Independence was declared, and many battles fought. (Supposedly the blood ran machete deep) We are enjoying it´s fruits and breezes on our first day of rest. I had to rip this picture from Google, as my camera won´t plug in to this ancient slow computer.


Talon likes hotels and kids, he has been very cool with long days and walks. Needless to say, he has many questions (Why does she have just one tooth? Do superheroes fight police? Why is that cow so skinny?) Eliot likes Talon and music, he remains our entertainment. He is getting used to the Latin Beauties chasing him down, picking him up, giving him kisses and stroking his hair. They don´t do it to me so much anymore. Cora is feverously curious and happy with sweet little things, as usual. I remain a shaggy-headed gringo, content to walk a new street.


Hopefully, we´ll be in Cholula, our destination, in a few days. here, we can settle in and leave the hard life of the road behind for a while. I can´t believe we drove to this place.... Continents are really big. Email me and I´ll write back. Love you all.

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Headin' down to Old Mexico


Adam:


So far
this image
pirated from space
is all we know

Save
that there is
something
very real and tasty
within it

We're headed South tomorrow. Bound for unknown zocalo's, for reasons likewise unknown. We'll find out when we get there. Cholula. Cholula. Cholula.

In the meantime, we'll be on the road. Where, for some reason, my family seems to function best. The Seriious music grovin', fossil fuel burnin', not what's around the next bend knowin' road. The journey (and the border) is bound to be a trip.

Myself, I'm going down to see what there is to see. I'm not trying to get away, nor closer to anything. But, as is the point of any venture, I will try to see and speak clearly-- and to let myself be tranformed by my experience. We only live once, and my sweet serving of sentience seems to have been blessed and cursed with insatiable exploration. So we're going down to Old Mexico this summer. My only goals are to learn how to tell jokes in Spanish, hang out with The Kids, and to be of Use. We're gonna check it out, you know, get into it.

We'll post on this blog as often as we can. Check back to check in, or email us and we'll write back. If you include your Earth Address, we'll send a postcard. Until then, vaya con Dios. We'll do the same.

Siempre,

AC